Good summary by Eanna.
I recommend 'Morbo' and 'White Storm' by Phil Ball (an English journo who's lived in the Pais Vasco for many years).
My Dad met Santiago Bernabeu once, in 1975. Real were playing Derby in the EC (5-1, 1-4) and SB gave plenty of tickets to the expat Brit community. He was about 80 then and a bit of a grandee, but nice gesture.
The old man went for a **** at half-time, couldn't get back in, spent the rest of the game chatting and drinking with the US![]()


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is one of the great European stadia to watch football.....
. Espanyol are like Pathetico and Madrid with a right wing gang called, I think, Brigada Azul, but also other groupings including Catalan nationalists. I was told by one of their fans at Euro 96 that the bank Caixa Catalunya put pressure on the board to change the name. Real Madrid has far more support in Barcelona than Espanyol. I was in a sports shop and I asked the barca supporter if he sold many of the Real shirts there. 'Yes he said and a hell of lot more than that sh*t over there', pointing to the Espanyol shirts.
Ask the German Lady.

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