joe
08/06/2001, 2:16 PM
Liepaja
The residents of Liepaja, known as liepajnieki, have a reputation for being extremely proud of their home and with good reason. Already mentioned in historical documents as a settlement for Latvian and Livonian fishermen in 1253, the city became a major port during the Grand Duchy of Kurland's golden age in the 17th century. Tsar Alexander III built a fortress here at the turn of the previous two centuries for the Russian navy and the city also served as headquarters for the retreating Latvian government in 1919.
Unfortunately, much of the historical city centre fell victim to the destruction of the Second World War. The city became a major naval port for Soviet nuclear submarines during the cold war which turned into a graveyard of rusting communist ideology after independence.
Change is, however, in the air and the city and port are experiencing a revival without the help of Russian petrodollars which have become the saving grace of its wealthy neighbour to the north, Ventspils.
Long known as a city where art and new ideas have flourished, Liepaja was the cradle of the independence movement in the 1980s and has always been fertile ground for musicians from classical pianists to heavy metal rock groups. Take a walk on the beach, catch a show at a music club and discover why Liepaja has been named an International City of Change by the World Bank and the German Bertelsman Fund.
Arriving in Liepaja
Liepaja is accessible by bus, train, ferry and, on rare occasions, by plain. Buses leave regularly from Riga and the trip usually takes about four hours. Trains leave twice daily from Riga in the morning and in the evening and take roughly five hours. Both the Liepaja train and bus stations are located in the same building. The centre of town is a short tram ride away. The ferry terminal is located some distance to the north of the city. Take a taxi-bus to the centre. For schedules see (p.78 - 79).
Where to stay
Amrita
Rigas 7/9, tel. (+371) 80 888, fax (+371) 80 444, info@amrita.lv. 83 rooms (30 singles 40Ls, 36 doubles 65Ls, 4 half suites 70Ls, 8 suites 105Ls, 2 apartments 205Ls). CREDIT CARDS RESTAURANT CONFERENCE ROOMS INTERNET ACCESS
The only four star hotel in Latvia outside of Riga, the Amrita certainly doesn't disappoint. Singles and doubles with extra living space or without are tastefully decorated and include satellite TV and bathroom with shower. Half suites and suites are also decorated in the same fashion, include the same amenities and only differ in the amount of space they offer. Restaurant available.
Feja
Kurzemes 9, tel. (+371) 22 688, fax (+371) 81 447. 8 rooms (7 doubles 34 - 50Ls, 1 huge attic suite 10Ls/person). CREDIT CARDS RESTAURANT
A short walk from the beach, this beautifully restored brick townhouse is perfect for people who require a little luxury in their lives. The interior of each room is completely unique and amenities include large modern bathrooms and mini-bar. The attic has also been renovated and is the ideal place to stay if you're travelling with a large party and don't mind occasionally hitting your head on the ceiling.
Liva
Liela 11, tel. (+371) 20 102, fax (+371) 80 259. 109 rooms (35 singles 6 - 18Ls, 61 doubles 7 - 24Ls, 2 triples 10.50Ls, 11 suites 23 - 40Ls). CREDIT CARDS CONFERENCE ROOMS RESTAURANT
Located in the old city by the main cathedral and the central rose garden, this typical concrete block of a hotel offers clean and comfortable Soviet-style rooms with TV. If you don't mind using shared toilets and showers, you'll save yourself 12Ls per night, as the more expensive rooms differ only in the fact that they offer private bathrooms and satellite TV. A bargain.
Where to go out
Café Ilze
Graudu 23, tel. (+371) 26 724. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thr, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (2 - 3Ls) CREDIT CARDS
This dark cellar restaurant boasts impressive ambiance in the form of vaulted brick arches, aging paintings and romantic lighting. The menu lacks originality, but they do provide live musicians every evening to distract you from waiting for your meal.
Little Johnny's
Zivju 3, tel. (+371) 22 370. Open 10:00 - 21:00. (1Ls)
Tacky pictures of Marilyn Monroe and a New York skyline do not a pizzeria make. Small frozen pizzas and plenty of standard Latvian fast food to boot.
Naves ena (In the Shadow of Death)
Barinu 32, tel. (+371) 80 202. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (1 - 3Ls)
Named after Rudolfs Blaumanis' famous ice-fishing novella, this excellent bar and restaurant located in one of the city's oldest homes offers hearty Latvian meals and authentic ancient atmosphere. Drink a local Uzavas beer by the fireplace under giant oak beams.
Pie Krustmates Agates
Zivju 4/6, tel. (+371) 81 555. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (0.50 - 1.50Ls)
Godmother Agate serves a buffet of tasty Latvian home cooking in quaint, rustic surroundings. Definitely one of the cheapest places in town, it's probably also the best for breakfast.
Sams (Catfish)
Zivju 7/9. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (2 - 4Ls)
Congratulations to the person who opened a seafood restaurant on, of all places, Fish Street. The amazing interior consists of giant anchors, driftwood, a wooden bar that resembles a pier and canvas sails for curtains. Pastas, steaks, pizzas and seafood. Look for the bow of a row boat and a hanging lantern by the entrance.
Cafes
Pinguin
Pasta 2, tel. (+371) 27 066. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Lacking in ambiance this simple shop serves plenty of delicious ice cream and coffee.
Poetiska kafejnica (Poetic Café)
Graudu 43, tel. (+371) 25 559. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
A good place to relax with a pastry and a good cup of coffee, this pleasant café with a peaceful, pastel blue interior is also an extension of the central bookstore. Buy a book, order a meal or just listen to the soothing sounds of new age music.
Serenade
Pasta 28, tel. (+371) 80 739. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. CREDIT CARDS
Pastries, cakes, milkshakes, good coffee and home made hot chocolate all made by Latvia's largest candy producer, Laima. Serenade is one of their most popular lines of chocolates.
Liepaja by night
Libau
Malkas 1. Open 08:00 - 24:00.
The German name for Liepaja, Libau is part hunter's lodge, part fishermen's shack. Fishing nets hang from the ceilings and everything else, with the exception of the beer mugs, is made of wood. Great selection of domestic and foreign beers. Popular with locals.
Pablo
Zivju 3, tel. (+371) 81 555. Open 11:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. Admission: 1 - 2Ls. OUTSIDE SEATING
The funkiest underground club in Liepaja, their slogan boasts that each night is impossible to predict, because anything can happen. Walk down the worn, winding, graffitied staircase to discover a sunken dance floor flanked by a long bar and a section of tables usually reserved by posh locals. Live bands almost every night.
Sightseeing:
Holy Trinity Lutheran Church (Holy Trinity Lutheran Church)
Liela 9, tel. (+371) 22 208.
Although the facade of this 18th century church is dilapidated, the inside is ornately decorated with gilded angels and stain glass windows unlike other, more functional Lutheran churches. Its mechanical organ was the world's largest until 1912, but currently has to settle for being the largest in Europe.
Karaosta (Naval Port) & Fortifications
To cross the bridge into the naval port built by Tsar Alexander III in 1893 is to enter a desolate wasteland of abandoned military barracks, burned out administration buildings and half-empty Soviet high rise nightmares. Ruined fortifications slowly recede into the sea and the only building that has stood the test of time is the dauntless St. Nicholas Orthodox Church, which eerily hovers above the failure of this decaying area. Rusting submarines, which once drew in thousands of tourists, have now been sold for scrap. Take taxi-bus N°3 from Liela to the Atmodas stop. Walk north along the beach to see the old fortifications.
Liepaja Maritime Museum
Hikes 9, tel. (+371) 26 996. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 0.50Ls.
Divided into four small rooms, the museum displays scale models, paintings and memorabilia from sailboats of old to 20th century steamers. The kind elderly woman will allow you to steer a ship, bang a gong and sound a bell with vintage gear. The room dedicated to local fishing practices is by far the most impressive and includes authentic nets, hooks, boats and other equipment used at least one hundred years ago.
Liepaja Museum of History and Art
Kurmajas prosp. 16/18, tel. (+371) 22 973. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 0.50Ls.
Housed in a building which is itself an historical treasure, it is one of the most impressive museums in Latvia. The ground floor displays stone and bronze age artefacts unearthed at local archaeological sites, an excellent collection of weapons and jewellery recovered from a 9th century Viking settlement at Grobina west of Liepaja and vintage memorabilia and weapons from both world wars. Paintings, ethnographic costumes, black and white photos and bibles dating from the 17th century can be viewed on the first floor.
The Old Liepaja Hotel
Kungu 24.
In addition to being one of the oldest buildings in town (17th century) it also happens to be the place where a young Peter the Great stayed while touring his empire. Charles XII, King of Sweden, stayed at the house across the street (Barinu 33), but at a different time, of course.
Petertigus (Peter's Market)
Next to St. Anne's Church.
Riga's central market could learn a few things about cleanliness, sanitation and aesthetic beauty from this completely renovated food pavilion. In the fish section in the cellar you can by live carp for 1Ls or just stare at the critters in the goldfish pond.
The residents of Liepaja, known as liepajnieki, have a reputation for being extremely proud of their home and with good reason. Already mentioned in historical documents as a settlement for Latvian and Livonian fishermen in 1253, the city became a major port during the Grand Duchy of Kurland's golden age in the 17th century. Tsar Alexander III built a fortress here at the turn of the previous two centuries for the Russian navy and the city also served as headquarters for the retreating Latvian government in 1919.
Unfortunately, much of the historical city centre fell victim to the destruction of the Second World War. The city became a major naval port for Soviet nuclear submarines during the cold war which turned into a graveyard of rusting communist ideology after independence.
Change is, however, in the air and the city and port are experiencing a revival without the help of Russian petrodollars which have become the saving grace of its wealthy neighbour to the north, Ventspils.
Long known as a city where art and new ideas have flourished, Liepaja was the cradle of the independence movement in the 1980s and has always been fertile ground for musicians from classical pianists to heavy metal rock groups. Take a walk on the beach, catch a show at a music club and discover why Liepaja has been named an International City of Change by the World Bank and the German Bertelsman Fund.
Arriving in Liepaja
Liepaja is accessible by bus, train, ferry and, on rare occasions, by plain. Buses leave regularly from Riga and the trip usually takes about four hours. Trains leave twice daily from Riga in the morning and in the evening and take roughly five hours. Both the Liepaja train and bus stations are located in the same building. The centre of town is a short tram ride away. The ferry terminal is located some distance to the north of the city. Take a taxi-bus to the centre. For schedules see (p.78 - 79).
Where to stay
Amrita
Rigas 7/9, tel. (+371) 80 888, fax (+371) 80 444, info@amrita.lv. 83 rooms (30 singles 40Ls, 36 doubles 65Ls, 4 half suites 70Ls, 8 suites 105Ls, 2 apartments 205Ls). CREDIT CARDS RESTAURANT CONFERENCE ROOMS INTERNET ACCESS
The only four star hotel in Latvia outside of Riga, the Amrita certainly doesn't disappoint. Singles and doubles with extra living space or without are tastefully decorated and include satellite TV and bathroom with shower. Half suites and suites are also decorated in the same fashion, include the same amenities and only differ in the amount of space they offer. Restaurant available.
Feja
Kurzemes 9, tel. (+371) 22 688, fax (+371) 81 447. 8 rooms (7 doubles 34 - 50Ls, 1 huge attic suite 10Ls/person). CREDIT CARDS RESTAURANT
A short walk from the beach, this beautifully restored brick townhouse is perfect for people who require a little luxury in their lives. The interior of each room is completely unique and amenities include large modern bathrooms and mini-bar. The attic has also been renovated and is the ideal place to stay if you're travelling with a large party and don't mind occasionally hitting your head on the ceiling.
Liva
Liela 11, tel. (+371) 20 102, fax (+371) 80 259. 109 rooms (35 singles 6 - 18Ls, 61 doubles 7 - 24Ls, 2 triples 10.50Ls, 11 suites 23 - 40Ls). CREDIT CARDS CONFERENCE ROOMS RESTAURANT
Located in the old city by the main cathedral and the central rose garden, this typical concrete block of a hotel offers clean and comfortable Soviet-style rooms with TV. If you don't mind using shared toilets and showers, you'll save yourself 12Ls per night, as the more expensive rooms differ only in the fact that they offer private bathrooms and satellite TV. A bargain.
Where to go out
Café Ilze
Graudu 23, tel. (+371) 26 724. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thr, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (2 - 3Ls) CREDIT CARDS
This dark cellar restaurant boasts impressive ambiance in the form of vaulted brick arches, aging paintings and romantic lighting. The menu lacks originality, but they do provide live musicians every evening to distract you from waiting for your meal.
Little Johnny's
Zivju 3, tel. (+371) 22 370. Open 10:00 - 21:00. (1Ls)
Tacky pictures of Marilyn Monroe and a New York skyline do not a pizzeria make. Small frozen pizzas and plenty of standard Latvian fast food to boot.
Naves ena (In the Shadow of Death)
Barinu 32, tel. (+371) 80 202. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (1 - 3Ls)
Named after Rudolfs Blaumanis' famous ice-fishing novella, this excellent bar and restaurant located in one of the city's oldest homes offers hearty Latvian meals and authentic ancient atmosphere. Drink a local Uzavas beer by the fireplace under giant oak beams.
Pie Krustmates Agates
Zivju 4/6, tel. (+371) 81 555. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (0.50 - 1.50Ls)
Godmother Agate serves a buffet of tasty Latvian home cooking in quaint, rustic surroundings. Definitely one of the cheapest places in town, it's probably also the best for breakfast.
Sams (Catfish)
Zivju 7/9. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (2 - 4Ls)
Congratulations to the person who opened a seafood restaurant on, of all places, Fish Street. The amazing interior consists of giant anchors, driftwood, a wooden bar that resembles a pier and canvas sails for curtains. Pastas, steaks, pizzas and seafood. Look for the bow of a row boat and a hanging lantern by the entrance.
Cafes
Pinguin
Pasta 2, tel. (+371) 27 066. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Lacking in ambiance this simple shop serves plenty of delicious ice cream and coffee.
Poetiska kafejnica (Poetic Café)
Graudu 43, tel. (+371) 25 559. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
A good place to relax with a pastry and a good cup of coffee, this pleasant café with a peaceful, pastel blue interior is also an extension of the central bookstore. Buy a book, order a meal or just listen to the soothing sounds of new age music.
Serenade
Pasta 28, tel. (+371) 80 739. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. CREDIT CARDS
Pastries, cakes, milkshakes, good coffee and home made hot chocolate all made by Latvia's largest candy producer, Laima. Serenade is one of their most popular lines of chocolates.
Liepaja by night
Libau
Malkas 1. Open 08:00 - 24:00.
The German name for Liepaja, Libau is part hunter's lodge, part fishermen's shack. Fishing nets hang from the ceilings and everything else, with the exception of the beer mugs, is made of wood. Great selection of domestic and foreign beers. Popular with locals.
Pablo
Zivju 3, tel. (+371) 81 555. Open 11:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. Admission: 1 - 2Ls. OUTSIDE SEATING
The funkiest underground club in Liepaja, their slogan boasts that each night is impossible to predict, because anything can happen. Walk down the worn, winding, graffitied staircase to discover a sunken dance floor flanked by a long bar and a section of tables usually reserved by posh locals. Live bands almost every night.
Sightseeing:
Holy Trinity Lutheran Church (Holy Trinity Lutheran Church)
Liela 9, tel. (+371) 22 208.
Although the facade of this 18th century church is dilapidated, the inside is ornately decorated with gilded angels and stain glass windows unlike other, more functional Lutheran churches. Its mechanical organ was the world's largest until 1912, but currently has to settle for being the largest in Europe.
Karaosta (Naval Port) & Fortifications
To cross the bridge into the naval port built by Tsar Alexander III in 1893 is to enter a desolate wasteland of abandoned military barracks, burned out administration buildings and half-empty Soviet high rise nightmares. Ruined fortifications slowly recede into the sea and the only building that has stood the test of time is the dauntless St. Nicholas Orthodox Church, which eerily hovers above the failure of this decaying area. Rusting submarines, which once drew in thousands of tourists, have now been sold for scrap. Take taxi-bus N°3 from Liela to the Atmodas stop. Walk north along the beach to see the old fortifications.
Liepaja Maritime Museum
Hikes 9, tel. (+371) 26 996. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 0.50Ls.
Divided into four small rooms, the museum displays scale models, paintings and memorabilia from sailboats of old to 20th century steamers. The kind elderly woman will allow you to steer a ship, bang a gong and sound a bell with vintage gear. The room dedicated to local fishing practices is by far the most impressive and includes authentic nets, hooks, boats and other equipment used at least one hundred years ago.
Liepaja Museum of History and Art
Kurmajas prosp. 16/18, tel. (+371) 22 973. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 0.50Ls.
Housed in a building which is itself an historical treasure, it is one of the most impressive museums in Latvia. The ground floor displays stone and bronze age artefacts unearthed at local archaeological sites, an excellent collection of weapons and jewellery recovered from a 9th century Viking settlement at Grobina west of Liepaja and vintage memorabilia and weapons from both world wars. Paintings, ethnographic costumes, black and white photos and bibles dating from the 17th century can be viewed on the first floor.
The Old Liepaja Hotel
Kungu 24.
In addition to being one of the oldest buildings in town (17th century) it also happens to be the place where a young Peter the Great stayed while touring his empire. Charles XII, King of Sweden, stayed at the house across the street (Barinu 33), but at a different time, of course.
Petertigus (Peter's Market)
Next to St. Anne's Church.
Riga's central market could learn a few things about cleanliness, sanitation and aesthetic beauty from this completely renovated food pavilion. In the fish section in the cellar you can by live carp for 1Ls or just stare at the critters in the goldfish pond.